Tempting kebabs, fragrant biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with residents and travelers equally swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
Recently, Unesco honored it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – adding it to a exclusive group of world cities and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's sublime food. With this title, it becomes part of a global network of cities metropolises across over 100 countries committed to promoting "artistic expression as a driver of development that sustains urban life".
The honor "is a testament to its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and dynamic food ecosystem," as stated by a spokesperson from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to find a place in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this time-honored city is hardly a shock to its locals or dedicated food lovers. Many agree with the view that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO designation, this cherished, chaotic, and vibrant city – the capital of India's most populous state – is now in the global gaze for what has consistently characterized its heart: an profound love for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a constant discussion from waking up until going to bed in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the excellence of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were created, evolved, and elevated to sublime levels in their opulent kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of gastronomic creativity, blending Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. The story goes that the galouti kebab was created to cater to an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists ground the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Apart from the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only showcases fresh harvests but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Virtually on many street corners, there are tiny kiosks and kiosks – lesser-known delights that are wildly popular with the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, huge crowds start assembling from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in kulhads, along with fluffy buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a simple joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert available in the winter. The process of making it is scientific and involved. The vendor whisks the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible light consistency.
On chilly mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however express concern that their children do not want to take up the skill.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy places it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – shaped by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will encourage more people globally to explore these tales and visit the city to taste the culinary delights of Lucknow.
